File and rename photos by date taken: YYYYMMDD_filename inside a folder called YYYYMMDD.
If you haven’t already, make sure you have your subjects cross-referenced with the date shot. Google calendar or a Word document are both great for this.
As you choose and edit photos, copy the edited versions into a folder inside your YYYYMMDD folder, called “edit”. This leaves your original files untouched, in case you have to go back and start over on a photo.
If you resize photos for a certain application, like 800 pixels wide for online, rename those files “800_YYYYMMDD”. Then, they will all be together and you know know the size instantly when you are looking for files later.
Showing posts with label archiving. Show all posts
Showing posts with label archiving. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Batch Renaming
Some workflows allow your computer to do all of your renaming for you, when you import. Others force you to do it yourself, manually. While I don't agree with everything Pete Bauer says in this story, I like that he has a clear description of how to batch rename files in PhotoShop.
If you can't, or don't want to, use PhotoShop, I've also used Photo Mechanic. It's available for both PC and Mac systems. It's a little expensive ($150), but it can simplify things, and there is a demo version you can use for 20 days.
I haven't used Aperture, which is made by Apple, but I've heard good things about it. You can get a fully-featured trial version for 30 days. The academic version costs $180. It is more powerful than Photo Mechanic, but it still doesn't (I hear) work as a complete replacement for PhotoShop.
If you can't, or don't want to, use PhotoShop, I've also used Photo Mechanic. It's available for both PC and Mac systems. It's a little expensive ($150), but it can simplify things, and there is a demo version you can use for 20 days.
I haven't used Aperture, which is made by Apple, but I've heard good things about it. You can get a fully-featured trial version for 30 days. The academic version costs $180. It is more powerful than Photo Mechanic, but it still doesn't (I hear) work as a complete replacement for PhotoShop.
Screen Shots and Your Digital Archive
If you archive on DVDs or CDs, or use those types of disks as a backup system, it can be tedious to label those disks accurately. There are some concerns about if permanent markers in some way damage the disks. Also, handwriting can be hard to read. Using labels that stick onto a disk can be just as problematic. Some labels can cause disks to become stuck in some readers, potentially breaking them, or at least jamming up your system. Also, the adhesive on the label is almost certainly not archival.
What to do? I like to take a screen shot of a window containing the files I am burning/have burned to disk. On a PC, press CTRL, ALT and 'Print Screen' at the same time. This creates a screen shot of just the "active" window, so make sure that the window you want to copy is on top of everything. You can then paste the screen shot into either PhotoShop or Word.
In PhotoShop, just start a new document. The software will automatically size the new document to the same size as the screen shot (which is on your system's clipboard). Paste your screen shot into your new document. Crop and resize, if needed, and print on plain paper. I find a 5" square is good for most sleeve disk systems, but experiment with what works best for you. I then just cut out the label with scissors and slip it into the sleeve along with the disk.
On a Mac, hold down control-command-shift-4. A crosshair cursor will appear. Simply drag the cursor over the part of your screen you wish to capture. This will copy a screen shot of the area to your clipboard, and you can continue as above.
What to do? I like to take a screen shot of a window containing the files I am burning/have burned to disk. On a PC, press CTRL, ALT and 'Print Screen' at the same time. This creates a screen shot of just the "active" window, so make sure that the window you want to copy is on top of everything. You can then paste the screen shot into either PhotoShop or Word.
In PhotoShop, just start a new document. The software will automatically size the new document to the same size as the screen shot (which is on your system's clipboard). Paste your screen shot into your new document. Crop and resize, if needed, and print on plain paper. I find a 5" square is good for most sleeve disk systems, but experiment with what works best for you. I then just cut out the label with scissors and slip it into the sleeve along with the disk.
On a Mac, hold down control-command-shift-4. A crosshair cursor will appear. Simply drag the cursor over the part of your screen you wish to capture. This will copy a screen shot of the area to your clipboard, and you can continue as above.
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